A Mango's Adventure in Nigeria!

Here are pictures from my trip to Abuja, Nigeria. Some are my pictures, others are pictures taken from co-workers...I got kinda overwhelmed captioning but definitely wanted to put a little explanation behind them, but I also have taken forever to get these out...so...

Enjoy!

A Mango's Adventure in Nigeria

A Documentary.

One of the students, Wale Davies, made this doc about his experiences.

Film School Journal from Wale Davies on Vimeo.

All Three Nigeria Show Episodes

The Nigeria Show! - Episode One - watch more funny videos

The Nigeria Show! - Episode Two - watch more funny videos

The Nigeria Show! - Episode Three - watch more funny videos

Back State Side

So I am officially one of the worst bloggers....sorry folks I'm going to blame the slow internet connection or maybe the heat or perhapse I'll blame that I was overworked and underslept...all which are very true...but the fact of the matter I was having an amazing time and could never bring myself back to my hotel room until the min before I was going to fall asleep. I didn't read a single page of any of the books I brought, I didn't watch more than one episode of The Wire, and even that took me about a week, as I fell asleep during the credits each night...but I more than survived, and I can now look back and say I loved every second there, even the shitty dust storm lack of sleep over stressed days.

I am currently uploading all of my pictures so I will provide the link to that when I am done.

MEGA SNAP! I'm in there somewhere.....

Special Features: The Nigeria Show: Episode 2

Day Twenty: The Harmattan is Here

The dust storm was nothing compared to the arrival of the Harmattan. When I left my room this morning there was a haze over the hallways and through the sky...kinda like a San Francisco evening. But as it turns out this is the Harmattan, a short season in Nigeria where the Sahara winds blow and bring a thin layer of dust through out the country.

My throat feels like it is coated in dust and swallowing feels well, kinda nasty. The giant mountain behind the school grounds could not be seen all day, as if it had just simply disappeared. Please let this harmattan be done soon...

Day Eighteen: Oh SNAPS!

The smartest business man around here is this photographer that shows up everyday to take pictures or Snaps as the Nigerians say. He takes pictures everyday and then brings prints of them the next day to sell for 100naira (about 75cents). The students love this and collect them all...the photographer also knows the student's faces, and if they try to take a snap and he knows they aren't buying the snaps he tells them no...great business model.

The only problem with these snaps is they never ever ever stop...snaps all day, snaps all night, snaps snaps snaps. Once you take one, students run up to you and want one and then another student, and it will go on for 20mins if you don't pull yourself away. Hide.

I followed Ahmet down the hall the other day and quietly said "snap" in his ear, he turned around so quickly with a look that was about to say no more!

When will be done with these snaps? When every student has 10 snaps with us? 100 snaps with us? 200 snaps? one million snaps?

AH SNAP!

Special Features: The Nigeria Show

One of my co-workers, Travis, has created a weekly webisode...enjoy the first installment of "The Nigeria Show"

Day Fifteen: 2 Week Anniversary

The group of us that came out on that first Sunday have officially been in Nigeria for two weeks…and though at the time it seemed like the weeks have been long I can imagine how quickly this time is going to fly by...

Day Fourteen: Oh My, Nigeria or Beyond the Compound Walls

Today is the 8^th day of straight 12 hour work days, and I’m feeling it. I was so happy to leave work and have a night out on the town…my first in the 2 weeks I have been here.

A bunch of us, along with some coworkers from Del York went out to some of the popular Abuja night spots. We started at Blake’s, which is a restaurant/bar with a stage and live band that plays all night. A bunch of amazing, and I stress AMAZING dancers line the stage and bust a move, even going to the extent of grabbing some of us and teaching us dance moves in front of everyone.

Some of the highlights were watching Alex dance and the Blake and Omar stage hump competition…silly Americans.

Blake’s also serves some great roasted whole fish that you just eat right off the bone with your fingers…we devoured them very quickly. Also very spicy…like most of Nigerian food, and not just like wow that is spicy, but like the oh my god I might pass out cause my mouth has been burning for 20 min straight spicy.

From there a small portion of us went to a dance club where I was taught to dance like a Nigerian woman…sort of, cause I mean I will always have white girl moves. Basically the moves involve a lot of hip movement while your legs bend in and out and your butt goes up and down…I think I need some time to master this dancing…

It was a great night/morning and ended with a trip to breakfast before falling asleep as the sun came up. Much needed, much deserved.

I love Nigeria.

**I have some great video of this night, hopefully i will be able to upload it later...

Day Thirteen: The Dust Storm

Our school is directly off of the high way, which also happens to be under serious construction. What this means is that there is always lots of dust around us at school, it pours through the windows during rush hour and lays across all the tile floors of school. It is a very red/rusty color dust that stains my white socks by the end of the day.

However by the end of this particular day, a storm started coming in and the wind picked up creating a massive dust storm that fogged up the whole school, greatly decreasing the visibility. Finally the bandana serves its purpose….we all had to cover out faces as it was impossible to breath without getting a mouth full of dirt.

Day Twelve: Learning to Speak Nigerian

There are over 200 languages in Nigeria, the main one being English and broken English and then each region/state has its own dialect with Abuja speaking Housa. I have attempted to learn some basic phrases with help from Emmanuel, the building manager.

In broken English you say, “How fu?!” meaning how are you…the students love when you say this in the morning. Broken English really is a language of its own and very hard to follow…I constantly have to ask students to repeat themselves as I can never quite figure out what they are saying. I also love, “How be day?” meaning how’s your day.

I still need a lot of work with my Housa, but Emmanuel is keeping on me to practice with him everyday.

- Naquana = Good Morning

- Nowinee = Good evening

- Yakiki = How are you?

- Lafialo = I’m good

- Yaahki = How’s work

- Badamwa = No problem (which is my favorite to say)

The Nigerians definitely utilize the letter W.

Day Ten: Classes Begin

So due to some contractual disagreements I have had very little access to internet this past week…not to mention 12 hours of working in the heat every day leads to swimming pools and lack of energy to do anything more than throw myself into bed each night. So, yes I am well, alive and working hard.

School started on Monday technically, but really classes started on Tuesday with a lot of chaos and disorganization (not on our end mind you), but the students were clearly excited to be there and that’s what really matters.

We were able to set-up everything by the time classes started, but not without a lot of hard work on an extremely hot sunday....with the day ending in a giant rain storm almost flooding the school. Apparently it was the first rain in months and oddly when we went back to the hotel (only 20 mins away) everyone who was there said not a drop had rained.

***bah ok, so the internet here is so slow I can't upload any pictures, though I have so many to share...i'll start by posting these stories and hopefully I can upload some pictures later tonight...

Day Nine: Some Stories of the Nigerian Police

So I have talked about how the Nigerian Police or as we call them, our guards, are around us at school and on our drives to and from the hotel at all times. At first I was hesitant to have these men around thinking they would bring negative attention to us, but I have grown very fond of them.

They work so hard and are on duty at our school location 24 hrs a day, sleeping in chairs and having no food and water...but they are so excited to have us here.

The highest ranking officer in charge is Paul, he wears awesome glasses and has a great sense of humor, they all do..except for a few that seem to be the enforcers (meaning the guys with the gigantic arms) Anyway today Paul got his friend to come to school in the morning and take a picture of a few of us together with him (and it was a film camera mind you) and by the end of the day he had his friend bring copies of the pictures for everyone, such a nice guy.

Mike, Jaks, Jake, Ernie, guard, Joe, guard, me, Paul, Carolina, Travis, James, Nick

There are so many of these guards around us all the time...and at first I was a little intimidated by these military esque men with AK47s in their hands at all times, I have never seen any of them put down their gun ever....and the first few days as a barrel of a gun would swoop past my direction i found myself ducking and moving out of the way, but they are so casual with their guns...to the point where we HAD to ask that there were safeties on their guns. But now I seem to barely notice their guns...they are so accustomed to having them, and as the heat blazes on and they has gone hours with little to no water they line themselves up in chairs legs open AK47 between their legs and chin resting on the barrel of the gun...if they feel comfortable with their chin on the gun, I can get used to seeing guns guns guns.

Oh and I must say they have the most fashionable uniforms i have ever seen. One i love the green beret and two their pants are so beautifully made with intricate seams and basically yeah I want a pair of those pants. I'm hoping to convince Paul to give me a pair by the time I leave.

**and I had my first mango in Nigeria today, and it was delicious...thanks to Pablo for getting them for us!

Day Eight: Working Hard & Swimming Pools

Everyone is officially here from New York and LA...we got in our last shipment of teachers yesterday and start our first day of school tomorrow.

We did quite a lot of work over the last few days, carrying and unpacking 108 boxes full of equipment, setting up classrooms and troubleshooting (a lot). Turns out our facilities lose power quite often...not the best thing for a film school. We also had a smoking dvd player today and need to figure out how to trouble shoot that for class tomorrow...but yeah I can't go into too much detail tonight as I am tired of thinking of it now and need to hop in bed....

But the best thing I have ever experienced and will continue to do every day after work while I am here is jump in the pool after a long days work...sorry all you New Yorkers, but it is absolutely amazing!

our hotel pool*

I also just want to take a moment to talk about the 300 hundred Christian Nigerians that were slaughters this morning in a village about 3 hrs from here called Jos. This was a religious retaliation from some Muslims, who suffered a similar fate by the hands of some Christians a few months ago. You can read about it here. This conflict will not and has not put me in any type of immediate or future danger, so you don't need to worry about that, but this fighting and brutality is something that is such a reality here.

a man selling drinks on the high way*

*pictures taken by Eliana Alvarez

Day Six: Highway Driving & Meet Penelope

It feels like its been a long day, and we have our first day of really hard and long work ahead of us tomorrow (manual labor = working on my guns). So I'm keeping this short...

Driving on the highway in rush hour (notice the cars driving the wrong way on the other side of the road)

Meet Penelope, she is the hotel monkey and has probably the saddest face I've ever seen. I vouch to visit her every day...I think I'm in love.

Must get some needed rest. Good night all!

Day Five: Moving on Up or Out

Last night we were informed we would be moving to the Sheraton so that we could all get our own rooms, as promised by Del York. So we packed up and loaded several vehicles full of people and suitcases to what will now be our home for the next four weeks, the lovely Sheraton, Abuja.

The hotel will be a good fit for us, as it is not full of the political, business men that the Hilton boasted, making us constantly feel underdressed...But of course because we were in a luxury hotel for a few nights we got a little used it it....so some adjustment time will be needed, we (I) am happy to call this home...but of course I'll be happier when the man comes and fixes my air conditioning...

Alex waiting in the lobby of the Sheraton (happy now, alex?)

After our move we drove back into town to have lunch. On the drive I started talking to our driver, Pablo, who is from Cameroon, about the driving laws. There are no stop signs or lights or really any traffic laws. Everyone drives fast but not ridiculously fast and people really seem to let people have the right of way, but its definitely intimidating to watch. So as Pablo took our vehicle through the center medium and "flipped a bitch" in front of some cops I had to ask him,

"Do police write traffic tickets here."

"Traffic tickets?"

"Yeah like for speeding or wreck-less driving?"

(laughs) "No, no."

"Well what about for drinking and driving."

"Oh no we aren't supposed to that. I think they maybe just make you sleep on a cot for a bit."

Pablo making a very legal u-turn through the center medium

a bad example (the picture not the dress)of the beautiful traditional dresses women wear

the new view from the Sheraton

Day Four: Beyond the Compound Walls

Today was the first day I got to leave the Hilton compound and see some of Abuja...mostly the inside of a grocery store and a lot of the city flashing by us from a van, but it was still exciting to see a little bit of the city...but of course our hosts made us drive past the police station and pick up two armed guards to take us around again...I haven't figured out if this makes us stand out even more...I'm guessing yes.

almost all the women/men carry everything atop their heads

we went off roading for a bit

a very popular cooking oil in Nigeria

the central mosque in Abuja

Today almost everything was seen from the car window, so I'm excited for a chance to walk around the town soon...hopefully go to one of the public markets...oh and start working, cause we have a lot of work to get done to prepare for the school program that starts next monday, and we have yet to be shown our facilities...maybe tomorrow...

Day Three: Hotel Living

Most of the day was spent at the hotel, which is a bizarre compound of its own. It is walled off and protected on all sides, with one main gated entrance and is seemingly self sufficient. There are about 5 different restaurants, a casino, bars, night club, shopping mall, swimming pool and lots of business people. Everyone is extremely friendly and dressed so beautifully. The woman wear very form fitted colorful traditional matching tops and long skirts (I need to get some good pictures of this to show) and the men are either dressed in suits or are Muslim men dressed in linen pants with long matching shirts (again need to get some pictures).

We were unable to leave the compound, as I have come to call it, this day, but as I was feeling really sick still I was able to rest.

my first african animal

We had a great dinner and afterward met with Linus, the man running the program, and Stephanie, the woman running the program who also happens to be one of the top Nollywood Film actresses, I hope to watch one of her films soon....We were told we would hopefully start setting up the program the next day, as long as our equipment went through customs...

I got a very full and much needed nights sleep for the first time in a few days!

Day Two: Arriving in Abuja

We arrived about 5:30pm on Monday and made it through customs quickly, in fact a man from the government was waiting for us and escorted us through the line. There was a brief moment when he took our stack of passports and walked away, shit everything we were told not to do, give away your passports. He eventually came back, but seemed hesitant to give us back our passports.

Once we got outside the airport we were surprised to see a convoy of military escorts, a long with our guides and representatives from Del York International, the school we are working with here in Nigeria. The convoy was about 3 police cars, a van for our luggage, a van for us, and a military truck full of guards with guns. We were told later that we didn't have all of this because we were in danger but merely as a sign of respect and welcoming, just as an important official would receive coming to visit. Also must not forget that we had a photographer and videographer shooting everything...apparently we will be getting lots of mentions in the local papers...

the guards on the back of their truck in front of our van

The drive to the hotel was about 45min and so we got to see the outskirts of Abuja while it was still light out, but the sun went down and it went down quickly, from what seemed like a bright afternoon light to total darkness in about 15mins. We saw a lot of small villages, and what looked like a crowded market place, there were also a lot of small controlled fires (something I don't know anything about yet, but will have to ask someone next time I see one), and then we drove into the compound that is our hotel...(which I will have to go into more detail about in another post)

the gates of the hilton, taken this morning

Once inside we waited for our rooms, which we are now sharing..hello roommates! But Carolina and I are a good roommate fit, as she, just like myself, needs to have a tv or movie on to fall asleep every night. Anyway....once we got to our rooms we were told to come downstairs in 10min for dinner by our hosts....and all I (and everyone else) really wanted was a shower and a bed. Another photo op began...

Salami, Ola, Alex, Carolina, Nick, Mike, someone, Mike, Ada, Me, Ernie, Joe, someone

We were treated to a very american (Hamburgers & fries) dinner and introduced to my new local favorite beer, Star Beer, and then finally were able to get some sleep. Long day(s).

Day One: Traveling

Today is the first day we got the internet working, so I really was traveling about two days ago but here is how it went.

On Sunday we (8 of us) took a 7 and a half hour flight from JFK to Frankfurt and won't lie, had a few glasses of wine to pass the time, so we were a little tipsy as we got off the plane at 5am in Germany. The airport was dead at that hour but quickly filled up.

fresh faced & a little tipsy in Frankfurt (Mike, Ernie, Me, Mike)

Riding the tram at 5am in Frankfurt, we saw the most beautiful full moon

all the staff in Frankfurt ride small bicycles everywhere

We then had a 6 hour layover in Frankfurt where we then took another 6 and a half hour flight to Abuja, Nigeria arriving at 5:30pm Monday evening. Lots of travel but the planes were half empty...I mean half full (I am an eternal optimist), good enough airplane food, movies and free booze....though I did get a horrible airplane cold (stuffy/runny nose and sore throat) that I am hopefully getting over soon.

And then we landed in Nigeria...

Let the Adventure Begin!

I'm all packed and ready...do you think I brought too much?photo credit

24 hours of travel ahead of me...see you in Nigeria!

The Last Snow Fall

We had a giant snow storm yesterday...the last I'll see of the season before 105 degree dry heat. Our Visas/passports were supposed to arrive in the morning but due to the snow they were stuck in limbo without us knowing where they were...but thank god for the awesome people at FedEx (always loved them!) who found the package and we sent someone to personally pick it up at the station...

Ok, got to get a start on the day...too much to do before getting on the plane tomorrow!

I stalked this woman down the street (heart red umbrella)

someone isn't getting their food delivery today

buried in snow to my calf in the park

styvasant park

It's Really Happening!

Ok Visa crisis is past us...I'm approved!

So much to do these last few days, but at this point I just really need to pack and check off a few things on my to do list...damn you TAXES (shake fist) I just don't want to finish you when I owe so much money!!!

Visas are Making Things Exciting

So we had our first panicked moment last night when we found out our Visas had not gone through....phone call were made to all of us to bring our passports and more passport photos. Try wrangling 15 people scattered about Manhattan, Brooklyn...and even one in New Jersey...

Vigorous paperwork was filled out and overnighted to DC. Hopefully we will be getting to leave on Sunday...but I guess we will find that out tonight...

How to Stay Healthy (But don't think you won't get sick)

So yesterday I went up to Columbia and got a very informative health talk by such a cute little ol' lady who would gently touch your arm during her delivery of important information. Loooving her!

Anyway I did get quite a few good tidbits from her, though some I did already know from doing all my research.

Here are my notes from that lovely ol' lady:

Water:

-always wash and dry cans or bottles every time before you drink something.

- drink atleast 8 16oz. bottles of non caffeinated or non alcoholic liquid a day

-you should have to pee every 3-4 hrs and it should be clear

-if the water seems iffy don’t drink it! Can depend more on carbonated drinks (tonic, seltzer, club soda, etc)

-boil water to make it safe to drink

-run water through cheese cloth (can buy at super market) and then boil for atleast 5min.

Foods:

-Don’t ever eat salad!

-All foods must be cooked

-Don’t eat fruit unless you have washed and peeled it yourself (even if its bananas doesn’t mean its safe.) No grapes!

-No fresh squeezed juice

-Be careful with fish…must be cooked fish, don’t eat barracuda.

-Don’t drink milk or cheese that is not pasteurized…might just use powdered milk for coffee

Sickness Prevention:

-Always wash hands for atleast 20-30sec vigorously with soap..tap water is fine.

-Use purel only if there is nowhere to wash hands.

-Bring own towel to dry hands with…a towel is a good thing to have always.

-Take probiotics: Culturelle is a good one, take before leaving and every day while there, puts good bacteria in your system so its ready to fight bad bacteria.

-Have a Dr. check your stool upon return as there might be bacteria still in your system.

-Bring Pepto-Bismol and Imodium to take during diarrhea.

-Have a prescription filled before leaving in case of severe diarrhea.

-Get a prescription of Tamaflu for flu like symtoms

-No swimming in any water that isn’t open ocean or chlorinated pool. No fresh water.

-Can get crazy snail thing that burrows into your skin..yuck!

Malaria Prevention:

-Malaria mosquitoes are prevalent dusk till dawn and very bad at twilight.

-Same mosquitoes that carry Yellow Fever carry Dengue Fever, these mosquitoes bite at all times of the day and are prevalent all over Africa.

-Minimize areas where mosquitoes can bite by wearing long pants and long sleeved shirts.

-Put DEET atleast 35% but definitely don’t get 100% very bad as often as instructed on bottle.

-Put sunscreen on 1 hr before leaving and put DEET on top of sunscreen before leaving in the morning. Reapply both frequently.

-DEET makes your sunscreen 50% less affective!

-Put DEET on all exposed skin, and even on face, but not around eyes or mouth. Just need a little, it absorbs into your skin.

-Get Permethrin spray to spray clothing and netting to protect more from mosquitoes, don’t put this spray on your body.

-Bring Duct tape to tape any holes you might have in hotel screens.

-Take Malarone pills with a meal at the same time of day to prevent symptoms.

-Tuck your bed netting around you at night when you sleep, tuck the netting into the sides of your bed when you leave in the morning to prevent creepy crawlies from getting into your bed.

-Yellow fever shot not required to enter Nigeria, but strongly recommended!

-Contact American Embassy on arrival to Nigeria.

-Most important rule of safety, if your antenna think something is wrong then do not do it or eat it!

Drug Store Super Shop

So some of the people I am going to Nigeria with have found themselves coming to me for answers to their questions...maybe I can be a little too organized and detailed, but I figure I can't be over prepared for this adventure, right?

I even got asked about my shopping list for the drug store...I told them I would sell them my list for $5...but since I'm feeling generous...


Other items I'm bringing that I already owned: Sunscreen, shampoo/conditioner, q-tips, mini sewing kit, set of dice, dental floss, nail clippers, journal, a few books, a giant box of protein bars, emergenC...uh I'm overwhelmed...

Also of course: Malarone (which is the NOT the malaria pill that was talked about in this recent episode of This American Life, scary!), Ciprofloxacin (for when Pepto and imodium just aren't doing the trick), Ultrathon with 35% DEET and Permethrin spray for my clothing....again overwhelmed...

The hardest part is going to be packing my clothes...I still kinda have no idea what to bring, though I did buy some linen pants...first time in my life wearing linen. As I have said, everything you know about me fashion wise is going out the door in Africa.

*There is a giant pile a freshly washed clothes staring at me from my bed...I have already moved this pile around from floor to chair to bed since yesterday...yuck...I guess must go fold clothes...

The Count Down Begins

Next week at this time the wheels of our airplane will have just landed in Abuja, Nigeria and thus we will start our 39 days working abroad.

At this point it's just a matter of waiting, preparing and tying all the lose knots that will be left here in New York. Don't forget to do your taxes before you leave! IRS why you trying to take my money before I go away?

I have to say I have learned quite a lot about Nigeria these past few weeks, and have a feeling I'll know a lot more very soon. And one of the big news stories that got Nigeria noticed these past few weeks, was the induction of their new President, Goodluck Jonathan.

photo

Abuja is the capital city of Nigeria (not to be confused with Lagos, which used to be the capital). It's a small city, roughly the population of San Francisco (750,000) and smack dab in the middle of the country, just boardering the Muslim Northern half of the country.

photo

I'm trying to be as prepared as possible, as I am one of those forward thinkers I've been told. But mostly I want to document this trip and experience as much of the Nigerian culture as I can while working there.

These first few posts will mostly be about my packing and getting ready, as I discovered I could not find a comprehensive blog by someone who went through a similar situation, so I want to help any future travelers out there.

Please comment and ask questions as I am hopefully going to try to update daily with pictures and stories from Abuja...depending that is on how fast our "high speed" internet actually is.